May 22

Day 9

Coimbra 

Today’s walk will follow part of the original Roman road that linked Lisbon to Braga.  So much history here in Portugal that is really fascinating. Our morning walk is once again similar to the California wine country.  Very hilly and some steep climbs.  We leave O Bonito at 6:30am without breakfast or coffee.  It is again very foggy and cool. Michael leaves just before us.  It’s a great system we have with WhatsApp to communicate back and forth as we are all constantly scouting for cafes! Ha 

     Right off the bat we pass an Ancient Roman bridge.  There are Roman aqueducts all around this area that are enormous. After about an hour Greg and I see Michael sitting on an old stone fence with a bottle of mustard in one hand and a sausage in the other. He cracks me up.  Real German guy who loves his sausage!  

     We are all aching this morning. Greg is going slower because he had a hitch in his hip, my little blister, aching neck and left thumb are an issue and Michaels whole body giving him fits! Boy are we getting old! A little Advil throughout the day sure helps a lot. Michael is in a lot of pain and taxis out to Coimbra.  

      It’s 12k to our first cafe.  Greg picks out 2 chocolate croissants.  I take a big bite and realize these aren’t chocolate, they are tuna!! I almost barf! It’s crazy weird when your mind is telling you you are tasting one thing and reality is different. I drink 2 cafe com leiti and call it a day for breakfast.   Big disappointment. 

      As we leave the cafe Greg gives me a great big ole kiss right out of nowhere in the middle of the road. It’s moments like this that last a lifetime. Unexpected at the time and cherished forever. After that we both have a skip in our step and as we pass locals they are waving and saying “Bom Caminho”.  One lady yells “Santiago!” and waves to us.  Everyone at this stage recognizes us as Pilgrims and we feel the love.   

     We pass a big garden of strawberries and the plants are loaded with big red berries. I think of dad and his big strawberry patches when my parents lived in Danbury.  Shortly I spot  a gigantic perfectly shaped red rose sticking above all the other roses and think of mom and how she loved her flower gardens. A little later we pass a yard with lemon and orange trees and one side of the orange tree had a lone orange on the limb with markings that looked like 2 eyes and a mouth.  I thought of Ronnie and his infamous “Carter” look and how he’s right here with me on this walk. 

    As we get further out of town the homes all have gardens and more property. Men and women are working in their gardens and taking pride in their manicured sources of food.  It’s amazing the number of old people we’ve seen in town or walking on the sides of the road who have canes or walkers. We talk about how truly blessed we are to have our health. Health can change in a split second and we appreciate the health we’ve been given. At one point an old lady walks towards me on the sidewalk.  She has a purse with an umbrella sticking out of the side ballanced on her head. It is so funny and absolutely bizarre I ask her if I can take her photo and she obliges.  Again.... these u expected moments are what the Camino is all about. A little treasure for my memory. I walk into the hills listening to the song “One More Day” from Le Miserable.  Just perfect. 

       These low  stone walls have been going on for days now. Back in the day people were obviously very busy laying each stone and marking their territory. Flowers and weeds peak out intermittently and often I see a clump of 3 new blooms together and away from any other foliage. I know it’s Ronnie, mom and dad encouraging me and giving me peace. I feel it strongly.  Walking today reminds me of Amy Grants lyrics “every road that’s travelled teaches something new.  Every road that’s narrows pushes us to choose”.  I’m learning something new every single day and making decisions that I hope to carry home and better my life. 

     We come to a little village and have a mini beer and water. These mini beers crack me up. But on the other hand it’s perfect for me and refreshes me on a hot afternoon not too far from our destination. Calories are essential. The cute Portuguese behind the counter stamps our Compuestella and bids us a Bom Caminho. 

      We are very high up and have a steep decent into Coímbra. From our perch we can see a vast network of a big city with huge buildings and a Basilica as a focal structure. It’s another 45 minutes to maneuver to our Hostel and we pass a big grocery where we buy provisions so we are not starving the next few days as we walk. There is a gigantic aqua duct right in front of us we pass under. I glance down at my shadow and see a perfect black tar heart. I snap a photo and say “thank you, God”. A reminder for us all to look around and pay attention to nature.  There are signs around us all the time that can speak to us and soften our hearts. 

        We walk past the absolutely huge, gorgeous Santa Isabelle Cathedral. Breathtaking and ancient. There is a massive funeral going on. We sense it is for a very important person as all flags are at half mast. Greg tells me the story of St. Isabelle and how she helped the poor. 

     We walk on busy roads, around big traffic circles and across a large bridge crossing a river until we arrive at a main boulevard closed to traffic and filled with outdoor cafes and shopping. We are surrounded by history. Magnificent buildings and one covered in filigree iron designed by Gustaf Eiffel the architect of the Eiffel Tower and our glorious Statue of Liberty. Michael and Mimi are sitting having a cafe com leiti and call to us welcoming us into this fabulous old city. 

     We are thrilled to see our sweet French girl after 2 days.  She’s full of her own stories.  A young Italian couple spot her and rush up to our table giving hugs.  She met Luca and Elena yesterday. They are runners, smoke and walked 48K today!!!! Elena lights up a cig and talks to us. As they leave to find their Hostel they say “Have a good life”.  

      Our Hostel which is part of an incredibly beautiful old hotel is called Senesta. It was rated as the best Hostel here and is very old inside but updated with ultra modern facilities. It’s a gem and only 18 Euro per person and includes breakfast. I want to stay here for days! We have a bunk room with orange bedspreads, big windows that open to the ancient Basilica and cafes all around us outside. After a dinner at a local cafe we sit outside and listen to a little quartet play with a big bass and guitars classic rock music. It’s a gift to end our day. 

       The takeaway I have today from simply living is this:  Kiss someone you love today. A meaningful kiss with a connection of love that you both feel. There is no feeling like it and it will brighten your day.  

Nitey nite!