June 4

Day 21

Santiago

I wake up with excitement of being in Santiago and getting our official Credential Compostelle at the Pilgrim Office. It opens at 8am and we plan on being there when it opens. Otherwise the lines get long as Pilgrims from all over the world are coming in. I open our windows which look out over the Cathedral and rooftops and see 3 white doves flying over the Monastery. It’s overcast and misty rain yet the doves are visibly in front of my window flying and landing. Thank you God. Good morning family. 

    I was also excited last night to retrieve my clothes I had shipped forward to Santiago to wear these next few days and home. Ivar who runs the Camino Forum, stores Pilgrims belongings for a small fee. He was promptly at the office at 8pm and found my box amongst hundreds of boxes. Such a nice man from Norway. I’m putting my hiking tights and rain pants on again because of the rain. It’s supposed to be rainy all day. 

    As we stand in line for our Credential we meet an attractive older woman from Denmark. She’s arrived early this morning. She walked from St. Jean Pied a Port as we did 3 years ago. She tells us that in Fromista she was biting into a bocadilla sandwich and broke a tooth.  She didn’t know what to do and knew she couldn’t continue walking. It was a weekend day and everything was closed. A local Spaniard knew of a dentist and called him.  He came in to the office just to see her and within an hour she had her tooth filled and fixed. People helping people. That is what happens on the Camino.  

     We have brunch with Linda at the gorgeous Parador then go back to the Cathedral to walk behind the Santiago statue and hug it (a traditional Pilgrim custom) then we go downstairs where a small silver coffee sits behind bars which supposedly houses the bones of St. James.   The 3 of us kneel and pray thanksgiving for this journey.  The noon Pilgrim Mass is about to take place and the Cathedral is packed once again. We find a seat on the very last pew with a gentleman from Peru. His name is Jaime and turns out he has lived in San Francisco for over 45 years. His wife is German and she is meeting him here for Mass. He’s very funny and talkative and Linda and I both share our experiences in Peru. She goes several times a year to help blind and Autistic children in Lima and we go to a mission to help feed the poor and build homes in Piura.  He is fascinated by what we’ve both done and tells us about his son who had 2 Cornea transplants  when he was in his teens. He tells her that one of the transplants is no longer working and he is losing his vision.  He tells us they have gone to doctors everywhere and there is no hope. Linda listened then gave them hope with her connections.  They took down her information with great joy. A God moment that could change the life of a young man. As we stand and say The Lords Prayer, Jaime reaches over, hugs me and looks me in the eye and says, “thank you for what you do in Peru”.  I’m humbled and so grateful we’ve met this man. 

    During communion the angelic voice of a nun sings and I kneel in prayer.  Tears pour out from my eyes and hit my rain pants as my heart is squeezed so tight.  I miss my parents and Ronnie so much it’s just unbearable. I sob, then peace flows thru me like a lightening bolt.  The service ends and the famous Butafumerio swings as high as the ceilings. Incense is spread over the crowds and a song is sung from the heavens. It’s the most moving beautiful ending to my journey to Santiago. 

    As we leave we see Kim and John from Australia and plan a meeting for dinner. We also see Peter the Korean  Seminary student.  All are filled with joy. We walk out in the rain and see Malin from Sweden and we take cover in a little cafe sharing Sangria and stories.  We bid her farewell and head to a dinner of Spanish Tapas.     

    On our walk back towards the Parador and Cathedral we stand and take more photos as the rain has let up and the sunset thru the clouds is like a painting. As we are standing and gazing we meet a guy from Finland. Linda tells him that she knows Finland’s greatest gift, a 78 yr old woman doctor who selflessly helps the blind all over the world. Dr. Lea as she is called is from Helsinki. She donates vision equipment and her services and time in several places Linda does work. She came up with kits she calls “Linda Kits” which have the necessities for babies who are blind or vision impaired. It’s amazing the things you can learn about people when you strike up a conversation. 

    In a breezeway we hear the famous Tunas playing festive Spanish music. They are similar to Mexican Mariachis and wear black, white and red outfits. There is a small crowd and Linda and I dance and one of the Tunas grabs me and dances in front of the crowd. It’s a fun ending to a wonderful day. We will get up bright and early tomorrow to drive to Vigo, fly to Lisbon, spend the night then fly back to America tomorrow. 

    I came to Portugal 3 1/2 weeks ago on this Camino to Santiago, Spain. I go home day after tomorrow with strengthened faith, peace in my brother’s passing and renewed realization of what is important in life. My real Pilgrimage starts when I return home and guided by our maker and Creator of all..... The God Of All My Days. 

      

“I came to You with my heart in pieces

And found the God with healing in His hands

I turned to You, put everything behind me

And found the God who makes all things new

I looked to You, drowning in my questions

And found the God who holds all wisdom

And I trusted You and stepped out on the ocean

You caught my hand among the waves

'Cause You're the God of all my days

Each step I take

You make a way

And I will give You all my praise

My seasons change, You stay the same

You're the God of all my days

I ran from You, I wandered in the shadows

And found a God who relentlessly pursues

I hid from You, haunted by my failure

And found the God whose grace still covers me

I fell on You when I was at my weakest

And found the God, the lifter of my head

And I've worshiped You

And felt You right beside me

You're the reason that I sing

'Cause You're the God of all my days

Each step I take

You make a way

And I will give You all my praise

My seasons change, You stay the same

You're the God of all my days

In my worry, God You are my stillness

In my searching, God You are my answers

In my blindness, God You are my vision

In my bondage, God You are my freedom

In my weakness, God You are my power

You're the reason that I sing

'Cause You're the God of all my days

Each step I take

You make a way

And I will give You all my praise

My seasons change, You stay the same

You're the God of all my days

In my blindness, God You are my vision

And in my bondage, God You are my freedom

All my days”

   - Casting Crowns

June 3

Day 20

Santiago

Today is our last day of walking and very bittersweet.  As much as my heart is drawn to Santiago I do not want my Spiritual Journey to end. They say we are not Pilgrims until we return home. 

As I’m waking up, Linda brings me a cup of coffee to bed. She is the best!!!! She travels with this little collapsible coffee pot that weighs nothing. I’ll be ordering me one for my next Camino for sure. She had never heard of my little washing machine, “Scrubba” so I’m leaving that with her for her next few weeks of hiking with her sons. I’m so happy to have my coffee in bed that I’m being a tad over joyful and singing about what a great day it’s going to be. Lorenz tells me he’s going to miss me and he has nobody happy in his life. My heart aches for him. When we met him weeks ago he wasn’t smiling and now he’s smiling and happy and telling stories everyday. I will pray for this bright young 28 year old who deserves happiness. 

     It’s overcast with possibility of rain but slowly the sun peaks thru for our last day. We stop for cafe con leche and a a Spanish Tortilla with Pedron Peppers on the side. 

When we leave the cafe and into the countryside we see a bright pink suitcase with wheels laying on its side. Lorenz jokes and says he had sent his bag forward. We all laugh at this bizarre sighting and wonder where it’s owner is. We pass by the most beautiful flower (as if it could be any more beautiful than all we’ve seen daily) and it looks like an opened Kiwi fruit. So delicate, perfect and wild. Linda and I ooh and awe and take photos. 

      The breeze picks up and the clouds roll as we get closer to Santiago. I walk slower as I don’t want this to end. I pray nonstop thanking God for this blessing and for all the prayer request sent my way as early as this morning. What a privilege to pray for others. My go to song I’ve listened to daily on this Camino has been “Blessings”....

“We pray for blessings

We pray for peace

Comfort for family, protection while we sleep

We pray for healing, for prosperity

We pray for Your mighty hand to ease our suffering

All the while, You hear each spoken need

Yet love is way too much to give us lesser things

Cause what if your blessings come through raindrops

What if Your healing comes through tears

What if a thousand sleepless nights are what it takes to know You're near

What if trials of this life are Your mercies in disguise

We pray for wisdom

Your voice to hear

We cry in anger when we cannot feel You near

We doubt your goodness, we doubt your love

As if every promise from Your Word is not enough

All the while, You hear each desperate plea

And long that we'd have faith to believe

When friends betray us

When darkness seems to win

We know that pain reminds this heart

That this is not our home

What if my greatest disappointments

Or the aching of this life

Is the revealing of a greater thirst this world can't satisfy

What if trials of this life

The rain, the storms, the hardest nights

Are your mercies in disguise”.

My exact feelings and prayers on this Portuguese Camino in this season of my life.  I’ve carried Ronnie’s picture with me as he smiled the 375 miles and saw signs from heaven of him, mom and dad. I’ve suffered hills, blisters, sore neck, thighs and feet, rain, heat and cold yet I don’t want this journey to end. HIS mercies in disguise. 

      Just before we enter Santiago we see Kelsa crossing a bridge alone. Dave is still not feeling well so he bussed into the city. She walks with us the last 2K. Lorenz leaves us at one junction as the hostel he’ll be staying at is close. He will leave at 4am to train to Madrid and fly home. It’s misting rain as we all hug him. Greg gives him his Panama hat he bought in Porto like a father would give a son or a man would give a friend.  We set a time to meet at the church and farewell dinner afterwards. 

    We pass my shops, cafes, cross busy street and see Pilgrims just like us with colorful backpacks entering the city. It’s a different entry than it was 3 years ago walking in from the Frances Route.  We see the huge magnificent Cathedral ahead round the corner to meet it head on.  

Santiago stands at the top as if to say “job well done”.  It’s a feeling indescribable. I was hoping the scaffolding would be gone from 3 years ago but it is still up and moved to a different section. Cleaning and restoration takes years. 

      It’s 4pm and we decide the line to get our Certificates is too long so we walk in the rain to check into our hotel after many photos. We are staying at San Miguel Hotel and it’s charming, modern and tucked away on the other side of the sprawling Seminary. We are given a room at the top with the best view overlooking rooftops and the Cathedral. It’s small and perfect. 

     After showering we locate on google maps where our clothes we wore on the plane were forwarded. We have a tiny window of 8-8:30pm to pick up because it’s Sunday. The rain has picked up and we walk with rain gear to 6pm Mass where Linda and Lorenz are saving us a seat.  The service is packed with people standing everywhere... hundreds if not thousands. The Butafumeria doesn’t swing but we will come again to the noon Pilgrims Mass tomorrow where every country is announced of Pilgrims who have arrived that day. 

    We have our farewell dinner for Lorenz and walk back to the Parador for a glass of Cava before bed. We all hug him and wish him a safe travel home and happiness for his life. We hope our paths will cross again but if not I feel certain that we’ve all learned something valuable from each other. God puts people in our lives for a reason. 

     What a bittersweet day it has been.  Joy and sadness all combined into one word.... Peace. 

Nitey nite as I go to sleep with a peaceful heart.   

June 2

Day 19

O Pedron

It’s not raining! The forecast had predicted rain next 2 days and I’m thrilled it’s wrong. It is cool and slightly foggy over the mountains but a perfect walking morning. I was excited last night I saw a coffee maker at the Albergue and the hostess said coffee was available. I was disappointed she was wrong. There was a coffee maker but the pot was missing and I never found it or coffee grounds. Teaser. Greg looked on our map and determined there was s cafe 3K away. We forgot to buy Advil yesterday so this walk was a stiff, sore one. 

      The cafe was closed. We passed by several closed ones. What the heck... it’s Saturday morning and 8:00am   Finally after 9.5K we find a ultra modern place with doors wide open, cafe con leche and the biggest freshest croissants. Plain ones but at this point I’m starving.  It’s amazing how caffeine and a few calories perk up my gate. 

      The big gift of the day is that Linda Lawrence, our dear friend who joined us s few times on the Frances, is joining us this morning. She’s lives in Kansas but was instrumental in Greg’s and me meeting in Galveston, Texas 33 years ago. She’s an Opthamologist who travels all over the world helping blind children and starting infrastructure for Opthamology in 3rd world countries. She’s walked the Camino 11-12 times.... I’ve lost count. I like to call her “Saint Linda” because she truly is gifted and amazing. She flew to Madrid, trained to Tui, rented a car and drove to Pedron where we will end up today. Then she taxied back to a small village and timed it perfectly to walk backwards on the trail towards us and meet up. We see her walk towards us in a distance like an Angel.... huge hugs and pictures.  So happy to see her. She travels with a tiny knapsack and told me on the last Camino she takes the bare essentials.... a change of clothes and a few other things. She’s such an inspiration to me. 

     There is a bar/cafe not far from where we meet and as we start to pass by Linda tells us to wait because there is someone inside she wants us to meet. In the 10 minutes she sat and had a coffee here she met this most incredible man with a story that will bring tears to your eyes.  Below is an article I found on him:

   “Jose Antonio Garcia has become known as ‘The Pilgrim’ in his native country of Spain, after spending the last 11 years of his life walking over 100,000 kilometers to various pilgrimage sites on all continents except Oceania. This year, his amazing journey has finally come to an end.

    Born in Puerto de Santa María, in the Spanish province of Cadiz, Jose Antonio Garcia spent most of his life on water, working as a sailor. He wasn’t the most religious person, but after going through a near-death experience, he decided to dedicate his life to an epic pilgrimage to as many holy sites as he could walk to. In 1999, the fishing boat Jose was working on capsized off the coast of Norway, and he was the only survivor out of a crew of 17. He spent hours in the freezing water clinging to the bodies of two fellow sailors, and it was then that he turned to religion, vowing to the Virgen del Carmel, the patron of sailors, that he would walk to all of the world’s holy shrines, if she saved his life.

      Miraculously, Jose was found by a rescue team, but had to spend the next eight months in a hyperbaric chamber to recover from his injuries. But even after that long period of time, he was still unable to walk, and doctors were unsure that he would ever be able to use his legs again. Garcia spent the next two years in a wheelchair, and two more after that walking with crutches, but in the end, he was able to walk like a normal person again. And he never forgot the promise he made to the Virgen del Carmen when he was so close to death. As soon as he was back on his feet, he took out his life savings (around 36,000 euros), filled up a backpack with basic travel items, and left his home town to visit as many holy sites as he could.

     The first stop on his epic pilgrimage was Santiago de Compostela, in Galicia, where he visited the sanctuary of the Virgen Fatima. From there, he walked all the way to Rome, Italy, where he met Pope John Paul II, and dozens of other holy sites throughout the European continent. He then walked into Asia, through Turkey, visiting countries like Israel, Syria, Kazakhstan, Tibet and India. The Pilgrim then walked through Siberia and traversed Russia to pass into the North American continent through Alaska. He walked south, reaching Mexico and eventually passed into South America, stopping at as many religious sites as he could along the way. During the last 11 years, Jose Antonio Garcia walked on all continents except the Oceania region, visiting holy sites of multiple religions, including Buddhism, Islam and Christianity.

     Even though he started off with 36,000 euros, he spent all of it during the first stages of his incredible pilgrimage, and ended up relying on the kindness of strangers for food, shelter an directions. In a 2014 interview with Viaje con Escalas,  Jose said he was impressed with the generosity of people in poor countries, who know what real hunger feels like and are always willing to share what little food they have with someone in need. Speaking about his most noteworthy experiences on his pilgrimage, Garcia said that he will never forget the six months he spent living in a monastery in Lhasa, Tibet, nor his visit to the Bosnian town of Medjugorje, where the church uses all donations to rebuild the town. He calls it “a place where you can really feel the faith”.

Regarding how his family feels about him being away for over a decade, Jose Antonio Garcia said that they are very supportive and proud. He thinks it’s both due to the nature of his journey and the fact that they are used to him being away for long periods of time. Ever since he started working as a sailor, in 1962, he has been away from home for at least six months a year.

   After walking over 107,000 kilometers around the world, visiting thousands of holy places and shrines, Jose Antonio Garcia is finally ready to return home, to Puerto de Santa María, where his daughter and grandchildren are waiting for him. At 67 year old, The Pilgrim feels that he has fulfilled his promise to the Virgen del Carmen, and is ready to dedicate the rest of his life to helping others.”

     We are all blown away, listen to him, hug him, Linda gives him money, and wish him luck in his journey home. I feel like meeting him today has strengthened my faith 10-fold. Being with Linda and Jose on the same day on a Camino in Portugal truly was planned by God to show me that anyone can do great works in being a light to others. They are both shining on me today. What a glorious day.  

      Last night Linda tells us she met the 2 girls from Austin we had met back in Porto. When I met them I learned they knew my friend Lois and I wrote about it in my blog that day. Linda has been following my blog and remembered the story so as she was sitting at dinner in Tui she met these girls, discovered they were from Austin, and asked if they’d met Mo and Greg.  They said yes and and also knew a friend of Linda’s. What are the chances of this happening out of hundreds of Pilgrims who walk the Camino? It’s a God thing not a chance thing. 

   Just before we met a Jose we met a beautiful Swedish girl named Malin. She’s walking in socks and sandals as she has lost a big toenail from a blister. Ouch! Her boots are heavy so she’s looking for a place to mail them forward to Santiago. She’s very sweet and we lose her in a large village but find her later in the afternoon at a cafe. In the afternoon we also see lots of day walkers who have little backpacks and large wooden sticks with ribbons attached. Everyone has a reason for walking the Camino even for just a day.  More and more groups of Cyclist whiz by us.  So many new people with their sites in Santiago.  

     When we arrive in Pedron we are staying at the coolest new modern Albergue. It’s clean as a whistle and we have bottom bunks in cubicles. We shower and find a Pulperia for dinner where we sit out under big umbrellas and enjoy pulpo and the famous Pedron peppers. Delicious! John and Kim from Australia join us and it’s constant laughter. They tell us they live in the Australian Bush country and they can’t have a dog or cat because of the wallabies so they have a pet snake! It’s a “child boa” and only 4 -5 ft long. Once or twice a week they feed him “pinkies” and “Weenies” which are little frozen mice.  I can’t even imagine!!!!! 

       When we return to the Albergue there are 8 Spanish men who are wanting us to do Karaoke with them. They get out guitars, have song sheets and pass around some kind of homemade liquor. They are full of life and so happy. We get to bed at midnight! I’m gonna be oh so tired tomorrow on the last walk of my journey into Santiago. It’s only a 25K day so I’ve got that going for me!

Nitey nite!

       

June 1

Day 18

Barro

“In the morning when I rise

Jesus be my eyes

Before the day rushes in

With You is where I begin

As You sing over me with Your love

I will sing praise for all You have done

Fill my heart as I hunger for You

Flood my mind with Your wisdom, Your mercy, Your truth...” - Casting Crowns

Last night when we snuggled into our bunk bed cubby I was ecstatic that we weren’t in a big room full of beds. The problem with the cubby system is getting up in the dark and remembering which curtain you came out of. I did just that this morning!  I got up early to go to the restroom and didn’t take my light with me. When I came back in the room I had no idea which curtain I came out of because it was dark. I started going by each set of curtains whispering Greg’s name and then started laughing uncontrollably!  It was a bad “B” movie but I finally found where he was. He was awake reading and we both laughed. Geez... I could picture myself climbing on a top bunk with someone else!ha The trials and tribulations of Hostel living.  

      Today started with us walking the wrong direction out of town.  Two German girls caught us and pointed out the arrow we had missed. Right off the bat there was a “killer” hill and off came the rain gear. There were so many Pilgrims  walking out of town this morning. We learned it is a 4 day Portuguese holiday hence more walkers and cyclist on this leg right now.  

      The new Pilgrims have cute outfits and aren’t used to the etiquette of walking the trail. Many didn’t move over so you could get around them on narrow trails and I saw a few actually talking on their cell phones. At one point as we entered a village we saw a big greyhound type bus that was a support vehicle for a bus full of walkers. We couldn’t believe our eyes.  People will go to lengths to be a Camino walker but they miss the true meaning of what the walk is about.  Very disappointing. 

    We pass a really cool wall of Camino Shells people have left with notes and signs. There are more and more water fountains and tall skinny stone crosses. I’m smelling more cows and seeing a few cherry trees as we are welcomed into the Galicia region of Spain. This region is known for rain and it’s in the forecast thru Sunday. This rainy area is full of green foliage, flowers and grapes which are all so lush.  

   We are very close to the coast and actually at an inlet where the Lérez River meets the ocean. We cannot see the convergence but we do see the river. A beautiful ancient Roman bridge opens the doors to the busy city of Pontevedra.  The Basilica is huge and beautiful but the doors are closed. So many churches we’ve passed are closed. Usually ones in smaller villages are closed but almost always the large cities have churches open. This city has the oldest “old town” in Galicia 2nd to Santiago. So much history and Roman evidence here. We have lunch and I do believe I’ve eaten the best Spanish Tortilla in my life. It was served hot right out of the oven and so flavorful. Delicious!

   When we walk out of this city we walk back into countryside and we meet a gentleman from South Africa. We are at the top of a hill and he’s at the bottom looking up. Turns out he’d changed out of his jacket and left his stick on the side of the road. Lorenz takes it to him. He’s so thankful and funny.  He said he was walking downhill with the motion of the stick in his hand then realized there was no stick! Ha. He demonstrates what he was doing and we dye laughing. Sticks are easy to forget and we’ve all left them at some point but one of us sees them and grabs. While we chat with him for a while he tells us a Pilgrim at his Albergue had a stroke this morning. A husband and wife from Canada and it was the 64 yr old woman. So sad. I’ll keep them in my prayers. 

      Our walk today is hard for me. There are so many steep short ascents and descents. It’s not like we are climbing long hills but some of the short hills up short distances are almost vertical. I huff and puff and make it up always thankful for a crest. There are more and more “Horreos” or corn sheds as we would call them. They are the raised little houses in peoples yards usually with a cross on top. It is where the Spaniards store corn. Also I am noticing the Lavendarias in many towns like I saw in Portugal. They are open water tanks where the locals can hand wash clothes. Another difference in Spain and Portugal is the free food with drinks. When we ordered coffee yesterday we were served a small plate of sponge cake with it.  When I ordered a beer at the end of the day I got a bowl of chips. I’m liking that! At one point I check my tracker for mileage and I had somehow paused it. I had walked at least 5K and the tracker said I’d burned 3 calories! I better be burning more than that with free cake and chips the next 6 days! Ha

       I catch up to Lorenz and he tells me more about  his homeland of Hungary. I didn’t realize the Hungarian Russian Revolution lasted from the 1950s to 1989. He tells me how his parents were both from Hungary and lived thru it.  His stories really makes me realize how lucky we are to live in America. We take for granted our freedom.  I’ve been praying for our country every day and will continue to do that. We are truly Blessed to live in a free country. 

    Cyclists pass us ringing their bells and yelling Buen Camino. We pass cafes and climb one last hill to our Albergue for the night. Lorenz has called to reserve however the host told him they never turn away Pilgrims and find a place for everyone. We walk in and the hostess tells us they are full! After walking 32K that’s the last thing you want to hear. She tells us the next Albergue is over 10K away but we can sleep on the floor. We decide to do that and it’s not so bad because they have twin mattresses on the floor. It’s Donativa (donation only) and includes a big Pilgrim dinner. The hostess makes dinner for 20 Pilgrims in the back yard. Homemade wine, kale soup, salad, Spanish Tortilla (again) and crusty bread. It’s actually very charming and the other guest delightful. We meet an American lady from Florida, Christine, who has done one of the Camino trails  every year since 2004. She comes alone and spends a month. This year she’s done the Coastal Portuguese Route. She’s full of good information.  A couple sits next to us from Australia. The Australians are always so friendly and funny. We have the same humor. Kim and John took a vacation in Europe including a Greek Cruise before the Camino and have walked from Porto. They are full of stories, charming and he looks just like the actor James Cromwell. We all sit at a long table with flower pots on it and blue checkered table cloths as we listen to a backhoe dig a new septic system behind us. John teases about it and says we may be out of luck with toilets tonight!

       After I eat,  I excuse myself to go shower. It’s the first time I haven’t showered right away. Bad decision. No hot water. No warm water. Freezing cold water!  I stand there in the shower, put my dirty clothes back on and head to bed. I crawl into my sleeping bag tonight on the floor, dirty from walking a long day and say my prayers, thanking God I live in America.  

May 31

Day 17

Rendondela

Mystical Path:

  “When we start to live as each day is our last, we start to fully live in the present.  Each moment becomes a full lifetime, a universe unto itself...our priorities change, our hearts open, our minds begin to clear....we watch all life in transit and what matters becomes instantly apparent: the transmission of love, the letting go of obstacles to understanding, the relinquishment of our grasping, of our hiding ourselves”.  Who dies? - Steven Levine

     

      Last nite was a great nights sleep.  It was hard to get out of bed with the time change but we all got up at 6:30.  Our breakfast was right next door and opened at 7:30am with toast, juice and coffee for 3.50 Euro.  Just as we were leaving I realized I left my purse in our room which has my passport and credential in it!  Thank goodness I was looking for lip balm and realized it. On our last Camino Greg forgot or lost something frequently.  This Camino he’s kept track of everything and I’m the one forgetting things. 

     Today was overcast and misty rain the majority of the day. We put on rain gear then we’d peel it off and start the cycle again as rain would pickup or decrease. We left the big border city of Tui on a road that took us over a highway. It was strange looking down and seeing so many big trucks and cars.  As much as I love these ancient cities, my heart and soul are in the farmland, beside rivers, or in forest. Walking on a road in Spain is different than Portugal because Spain tends to have wide shoulders. Portugal had none. At 3.5K we bear off the road onto a soft dirt path but shortly cross back over the highway. I’m hoping today isn’t going to be on roads and as it turns out we were mostly walking in forest or on small country village roads.  

  As we enter a wooded path I set my goal for the day to take small steps and truly enjoy everything I see leading me to Santiago. One of the first surprises is a darling yellow trailer in the middle of the woods selling coffee, drinks and snacks. I call these snack trailers “mirages” and we had seen a few on the Frances Camino. When you least expect it and really need a stop, one would appear.  Just like a mirage!  I really wished back on the Lisbon to Porto leg for a mirage. There are so many Pilgrims this morning it reminds me of our last 100K on the Francis.  More people, better facilities and higher prices.  

   Once we are in the forest we walk along a beautiful stream.  It’s crystal clear and flowing to God’s rhythm.  We see a lost goat in the distance and I think about an animals instinct and how they eventually find their way back to the flock.  I think about lost souls and lost relationships and how God never gives up on making them right again. Neither do moms. 

    As we come upon our first stop I see 3 yellow seashells on a fence post in front of a home covered in roses.  We stop at the cafe Ultreia and there are so many Pilgrims here.  Most are Asians and one cute guy introduces himself and tells us he’s from Singapore.  Greg and I share a chocolate croissant and cafe con leche (Spain’s name for coffee with milk) and watch the rain pickup from underneath an umbrella.  We put rain gear on and all of the sudden I can’t find my glasses. Sunglasses are critical and I want to put them away in my pack. I look everywhere and finally find them on my head!! Lorenz laughs at me and tells me I remind him of his granny.  She’s 86, hyper and tells stories all the time.  He assures me it’s a compliment.  I wonder.  Hmmm.... gonna work on a few things. 

    We leave the cafe as I’m listening to “Rhythm of the Falling Rain”...perfect!  We walk along the stream again and cross a beautiful little stone bridge where we take photos.  I could stand and watch this flowing stream for hours. We meet a young Portuguese couple who started the walk in Tui. We chat for a few minutes then I catch up the guys. They tease me and ask me what the couple’s favorite colors are.  I have the innate ability to remember the most detailed and off-the-wall things about people. 

I see a starving kitten that runs up to us and I bend down and crumble up an old cookie I have in my pocket.  She eats it all up.  

   I look up and see 3 crosses and round a corner and see 3 yellow arrows on the ground leading us to a dirt path. Mom, dad and Ronnie are with me every day.  A few kilometers down the dirt path my lower back begins to have twinges. I’m thinking it has to be “hovering over a toilet without a seat Syndrome”.

    We stop for lunch and I’m thrilled they have Spanish Tortilla. The delicious potatoes and egg dish is comfort food to me today. We meet an American girl from Oregon travelling alone from Tui. We are all wet and cold and I change my damp socks and apply more Vick’s as my feet are sore from climbing. We have a big climb at the end of the day and a very steep descent that is cautioned in our guide book. 

     After lunch we start seeing street signs with “Mos” on them. We are headed toward an area and village named Mos.  How cool is that!!!! I’m so wanting to stop and buy a T-shirt or something but everything is closed for Siesta. I settle for taking photos and loving every minute! I might just move here. As we walk out of town to climb our last climb of the day I see 3 big stone pillars as if mom, dad and Ronnie are telling me to stay strong!

    Lorenz and I walk together for a while and he tells me before this journey (he’s been walking 4 weeks now from the tip of Portugal) he gave up all social media, computer and phone. He wanted to walk his 2nd Camino away from all distractions.  He doesn’t listen to music.  He meditates and reads. He gave up drugs, smoking and most drinking and is learning so much about himself from this journey alone.  I admire his commitment as I pray for addictions.  He tells me he doesn’t practice religion even though raised Catholic but he feels safe because his Granny prays for him daily. I will pray for him too.

     We begin our steep descent into Redondela after a quick cafe stop. Nothing like walking your last 5K after a Cerveza. We take photos of the gorgeous valley as the sun shows its face, if only briefly. My shins burn as I descend and I’m looking forward to a hot shower. 

    We are staying at modern Albergue A Conserveira.  The hostess is a darling Spanish girl and shows us our reserved bunks for 4 Behind a curtain. The greatest news is they have a washer and dryer because everything I own is dirty. Wet from rain and no washing facility last night. We combine all our clothes and pay 7 Euro for washing and drying. I shower and wear rain pants and my fleece naked as a jay bird underneath to dinner.  A new experience for me! I laugh and tell Greg I hope I don’t forget and try to take my fleece off at dinner. Ha!

     We walk thru this quaint town which is larger than my expectation. The stores are all closed for a city holiday and in the square a German band is playing. They are all old men dressed in suits playing popular tunes. The coolest thing is the streets are covered in flower scenes in honor of Corpus Christi which they celebrate the months of May and June. Absolutely gorgeous flower blooms and grasses are laid in the streets in beautiful scenes that would rival the Rose Bowl Parade in America.  

    We find a restaurant that has a Pilgrim dinner which is just Ok but the treat is David and Kelsa find us.  We enjoy dinner, wine and conversation with these fun Canadians.  We all have photos and funny stories to share. Walking home is cold and risqué as I’m hurrying back to the Albergue thinking that I’m naked as a jay bird underneath my rain pants and fleece. 

Too tired to write tonight as I’m tucked away in my clothes wrapped like a cocoon with a bottom sheet on a top bunk. The mattress tonight is the best! Thank you God for a soft bed that’s not plastic. 

Nitey nite!