June 1

Day 18

Barro

“In the morning when I rise

Jesus be my eyes

Before the day rushes in

With You is where I begin

As You sing over me with Your love

I will sing praise for all You have done

Fill my heart as I hunger for You

Flood my mind with Your wisdom, Your mercy, Your truth...” - Casting Crowns

Last night when we snuggled into our bunk bed cubby I was ecstatic that we weren’t in a big room full of beds. The problem with the cubby system is getting up in the dark and remembering which curtain you came out of. I did just that this morning!  I got up early to go to the restroom and didn’t take my light with me. When I came back in the room I had no idea which curtain I came out of because it was dark. I started going by each set of curtains whispering Greg’s name and then started laughing uncontrollably!  It was a bad “B” movie but I finally found where he was. He was awake reading and we both laughed. Geez... I could picture myself climbing on a top bunk with someone else!ha The trials and tribulations of Hostel living.  

      Today started with us walking the wrong direction out of town.  Two German girls caught us and pointed out the arrow we had missed. Right off the bat there was a “killer” hill and off came the rain gear. There were so many Pilgrims  walking out of town this morning. We learned it is a 4 day Portuguese holiday hence more walkers and cyclist on this leg right now.  

      The new Pilgrims have cute outfits and aren’t used to the etiquette of walking the trail. Many didn’t move over so you could get around them on narrow trails and I saw a few actually talking on their cell phones. At one point as we entered a village we saw a big greyhound type bus that was a support vehicle for a bus full of walkers. We couldn’t believe our eyes.  People will go to lengths to be a Camino walker but they miss the true meaning of what the walk is about.  Very disappointing. 

    We pass a really cool wall of Camino Shells people have left with notes and signs. There are more and more water fountains and tall skinny stone crosses. I’m smelling more cows and seeing a few cherry trees as we are welcomed into the Galicia region of Spain. This region is known for rain and it’s in the forecast thru Sunday. This rainy area is full of green foliage, flowers and grapes which are all so lush.  

   We are very close to the coast and actually at an inlet where the Lérez River meets the ocean. We cannot see the convergence but we do see the river. A beautiful ancient Roman bridge opens the doors to the busy city of Pontevedra.  The Basilica is huge and beautiful but the doors are closed. So many churches we’ve passed are closed. Usually ones in smaller villages are closed but almost always the large cities have churches open. This city has the oldest “old town” in Galicia 2nd to Santiago. So much history and Roman evidence here. We have lunch and I do believe I’ve eaten the best Spanish Tortilla in my life. It was served hot right out of the oven and so flavorful. Delicious!

   When we walk out of this city we walk back into countryside and we meet a gentleman from South Africa. We are at the top of a hill and he’s at the bottom looking up. Turns out he’d changed out of his jacket and left his stick on the side of the road. Lorenz takes it to him. He’s so thankful and funny.  He said he was walking downhill with the motion of the stick in his hand then realized there was no stick! Ha. He demonstrates what he was doing and we dye laughing. Sticks are easy to forget and we’ve all left them at some point but one of us sees them and grabs. While we chat with him for a while he tells us a Pilgrim at his Albergue had a stroke this morning. A husband and wife from Canada and it was the 64 yr old woman. So sad. I’ll keep them in my prayers. 

      Our walk today is hard for me. There are so many steep short ascents and descents. It’s not like we are climbing long hills but some of the short hills up short distances are almost vertical. I huff and puff and make it up always thankful for a crest. There are more and more “Horreos” or corn sheds as we would call them. They are the raised little houses in peoples yards usually with a cross on top. It is where the Spaniards store corn. Also I am noticing the Lavendarias in many towns like I saw in Portugal. They are open water tanks where the locals can hand wash clothes. Another difference in Spain and Portugal is the free food with drinks. When we ordered coffee yesterday we were served a small plate of sponge cake with it.  When I ordered a beer at the end of the day I got a bowl of chips. I’m liking that! At one point I check my tracker for mileage and I had somehow paused it. I had walked at least 5K and the tracker said I’d burned 3 calories! I better be burning more than that with free cake and chips the next 6 days! Ha

       I catch up to Lorenz and he tells me more about  his homeland of Hungary. I didn’t realize the Hungarian Russian Revolution lasted from the 1950s to 1989. He tells me how his parents were both from Hungary and lived thru it.  His stories really makes me realize how lucky we are to live in America. We take for granted our freedom.  I’ve been praying for our country every day and will continue to do that. We are truly Blessed to live in a free country. 

    Cyclists pass us ringing their bells and yelling Buen Camino. We pass cafes and climb one last hill to our Albergue for the night. Lorenz has called to reserve however the host told him they never turn away Pilgrims and find a place for everyone. We walk in and the hostess tells us they are full! After walking 32K that’s the last thing you want to hear. She tells us the next Albergue is over 10K away but we can sleep on the floor. We decide to do that and it’s not so bad because they have twin mattresses on the floor. It’s Donativa (donation only) and includes a big Pilgrim dinner. The hostess makes dinner for 20 Pilgrims in the back yard. Homemade wine, kale soup, salad, Spanish Tortilla (again) and crusty bread. It’s actually very charming and the other guest delightful. We meet an American lady from Florida, Christine, who has done one of the Camino trails  every year since 2004. She comes alone and spends a month. This year she’s done the Coastal Portuguese Route. She’s full of good information.  A couple sits next to us from Australia. The Australians are always so friendly and funny. We have the same humor. Kim and John took a vacation in Europe including a Greek Cruise before the Camino and have walked from Porto. They are full of stories, charming and he looks just like the actor James Cromwell. We all sit at a long table with flower pots on it and blue checkered table cloths as we listen to a backhoe dig a new septic system behind us. John teases about it and says we may be out of luck with toilets tonight!

       After I eat,  I excuse myself to go shower. It’s the first time I haven’t showered right away. Bad decision. No hot water. No warm water. Freezing cold water!  I stand there in the shower, put my dirty clothes back on and head to bed. I crawl into my sleeping bag tonight on the floor, dirty from walking a long day and say my prayers, thanking God I live in America.