May 21

Day 8

Rabacal

Mystical Path reading for today:

“There are many paths that lead us back to our divine origins but many that lead us in the opposite direction. We do well to remember that....money will buy a bed but not sleep, books but not brains, food but not appetite, finery but not beauty, medicine but not Health, luxury but not culture, amusement but not happiness, a crucifix but not a Saviour, a temple of religion but not heaven”.

Greg’s alarm went off at the usual 5:30am.  He has an obnoxious loud buzzer set and Michael suggested he change it to a gentler ring. We will see how that works tomorrow. 

We gather our things, everyone tends to their feet and we preview our guidebook for cafe options.  The book says the 1st one is in 3K but often it isn’t open.  Ugh. We are leaving earlier than our Alburgue serves breakfast so we are out of luck. The trade off is coffee later or walk in the hot sun. We opt for coffee later.  

    We hand  washed clothes yesterday afternoon and hung on our patio but nothing dried. So typical. It’s very cool and foggy this morning and my clothes actually feel wetter. I’m carrying my small pack so I pin all my wet dripping clothes on the outside of it.  Always so stylish! Ha Greg says I look like a gypsy!!!  Michael is up and walking today. We don’t want him to overdo it but he is determined to at least walk part way. I mother him and suggest he rub some Vick’s Vapor Run on his chest. Something my mom always did to us when we were kids with a bad cold.  We are all excited today is only 29.5 K.... it just sounds better than 34K.

     The beginning of our walk is like the Vermont countryside.  Very lush and hilly.  We all sound like a bunch of hackers coughing the first several miles.  It’s Allergy season on steroids here right now with all the blooming foliage. The thick smell of Eucalyptus fills the air as we are surrounded by these trees.   Our noses all running non stop.

Within the first 15 minutes of walking uphill we strip down to one layer. 

      As we pass farms and country homes dogs bark at us. At one point several dogs run out to ya and bark nonstop. Greg turns and faces them as I calmly rush by scared to death. Yesterday there was a dog so big behind a gate it reminded me of the movie “The Sandlot”.  It was a giant and I was convinced it was going to bite my arm off. So many dogs are behind fences or chained. No humans to be seen but plenty of dogs.  

      We pass dilapidated stone homes and buildings. Roofs caving in and weeds growing up close to each one.  These old places have so much history.  It’s ashamed they were not maintained.  

     As we walk we see blue arrows and yellows arrows at junctions along the walk. Blue arrows lead to Fatima and yellow arrows are the Camino arrows.  Usually they are painted together on a rock or post going opposite directions at this point. We follow our yellow arrows yet nothing is open. 

     I am so hungry.  I have eaten my trail mix and tiny shriveled Apple yet my body is needling fuel. It’s not fun being famished and depleted of food.  I think of all the starving people around the world and so many in America. I think of children who go to school hungry and I think of our family we support in Peru. These people exist on beans and rice.  It makes me think twice about the next time I see a homeless person in Houston or anywhere holding an “I’m hungry” sign. I used to keep care packages of food in my car to hand out and today I decide I’m going to start doing that again. With all of our resources no human. being should go hungry. God wants us to feed the hungry. Just do it. 

    We’ve walked 6 miles mostly going uphill. Still no cafe.  We walk past miles and miles of ancient low stone fences. Many stones are covered in moss. I think of that line from a song “moss grows flat out on a rolling stone”.... I think that’s how it goes. I could be delirious. Walking down this path over hard packed stones i feel my blister between my toes. It’s covered with comfeel so it’s not irritating but I do feel it. At 12.6K we come to the town of Ansanai and Michael has found us a bakery. We sit outside and drink 2 cafe com Leiti’s and pastries. I eat an entire sausage cheese bread and 2 tiny donuts.  I’m in heaven.  The German couple walk in and he’s wearing his leather lederhosen and bright orange shirt.  You can’t miss them! 

      We aren’t halfway yet but I’m fueled and ready to go. I pop in my earphones and listen to the song “Find You Here”.  Deep in thought. The scenery this afternoon is much like the California wine country. Olive trees and grape vines, rolling hills and wild flowers.  We walk for a few hours and come to a tiny little village where we stop and rest.  This little town is ancient and has buildings from the 1700’s.  As we get to the end of town there is a beautiful white church whose style is typical in Portugal with a bell tower and clock. The clock is at exactly 3:00.  I smile inside knowing that this 3 is significant to me. Just a little reminder that Ronnie, mom and dad are here with me. Thank you God for this sign. 

      It gets so hot in the afternoons. We break out in sweats climbing then a gentle breeze cools our undercarriage on the decent. (Stole that word from the movie “Bridesmaids”..... haha.... undercarriage!  We spend a lot of time walking the peak of a large hill and it’s almost dessert like. Cactus looking flowers, sporadic trees, no shade. As we descend there are fields and fields of yellow flowers and olive trees all planted in rows. We come to the main road which leads us to our home for the night, Rabacal.  

       We have a reservation at the O Bonito hostel where my bag was delivered. Michael is already there and laying in the sun on a lounger by a big above ground pool. The Swedes and the Japanese man we met a few days ago are having a drink outside. We cordially say Bom Caminho and try to speak in our broken languages. I’m super excited Michael has nabbed me a lower bunk. That’s what friends do for each other! Ha this place is very clean with super nice showers and bathrooms. Hardly anyone is staying here and we have our 6 bed bunkroom alone. 

         Dinner is served by the Bonito Restauraunt which is just down the road. A beautiful white church is next door and bells ring every half hour.  Dinner is soup, pasta with chunks of meat, salad and flan for dessert. A big jug of red wine and baskets overflowing with brown bread are at each end of the table. We are joined by a couple from British Columbia, Kelsa and Dave.  We saw them in Tomar but just now officially meeting. By the end of the meal we are fast friends and reserving a hostel together in Coimbra for tomorrow night. They are travelling with dialing ukeleles! I can hardly wait to hear them play. 

Until tomorrow.  I’m headed to bed. 

Nitey nite!