May 24

Day 10

Sao Joao da Madeira

      I read over yesterday’s blog and was mortified at all the spelling errors. I write late at night in a darkened room with one finger on a cell phone and the spell corrector is killing me. I apologize in advance and hope you can muddle thru the posts I’m adding daily. 

      Some mornings  it’s more difficult to get up than others. As Greg’s alarm sounds at 5:30am I just want to stay in bed with a big down comforter and sleep. We had a bunk room alone last night and I opened our window for fresh air. Not only was I cold all night but a cat screamed for hours!  I kept thinking it was a baby as I was awake freezing and wrapped up in only a bottom sheet the hostel manager had given us. I didn’t get my sleeping bag out because I assumed it was going to be warm.  Boy was I wrong!  Every muscle aches.  I have fond memories of yesterday morning sleeping in late and then waking to have the most delicious coffee.  Oh.... I’d give anything for a cup of that cafe com leiti!

     I slowly get ready for our day and run downstairs to the kitchen to have the special K I carried all day yesterday. I think I’ll leave it here for the next Pilgrims. Lo and behold a cafe is open in town at 6:30am and we stop for coffee with Michael, Mimi and Lorenz. Richard is still in bed but before long he catches up with us.  

      The beginning of our walk leaving Alburgia de Velha is through dense forest of eucalyptus and the tallest ferns I’ve ever seen. They are as tall as me if not taller.  Out of the blue I see a pair of black crocks tied up in a tree.  I guess someone got tired of carrying them. 

    Today in Texas is a designated day of prayer for the victims of the Santa Fe High School shooting. Our hearts are broken that anything like this could happen much less in a town so close to ours. We spend the day in silent prayer for the victims, family and friends and for peace. A few days ago when we first met Richard, he asked Greg what was in the Bible. Greg told Richard that basically there are 2 most important things to remember: 1) Love God above all things and 2)Love your neighbor as yourself. It sounds so simple and so easy but we as humans fail to do these things on a daily basis. If we loved God above all, we’d all obey his commandments. If we loved our neighbor as ourselves we wouldn’t be hurting each other emotionally or physically much less killing each other.  I think about this all day and pray for healing of the human race.  

      Today the forecast is 90% rain. The overcast skies have been perfect for walking keeping us cool but not too cool. Greg expected it to rain by 9am but it holds off until 10:30am. Precisely at 10:00am I hear “ the tater wagon rollin’”! An expression my dad always used for distant thunder. I smile inside thinking of this phrase he used. A cute older couple is walking towards us speaking Portuguese. We figure out they are warning us about a storm coming soon. We stop at a cafe and each break out our dreaded rain gear. Mimi and Lorenz each have the Camino ponchos and the rest of us have jackets. We look hilarious getting in our gear.  Mimi and Lorenz look like hunchbacks and Greg, Michael and I like Ninja Turtles. 

     We walk in light rain past beautifully manicured lawns each with gigantic roses spilling over their fences and always a few grapevines nearby.  So many homes have really unique and gorgeous doors. Always painted a pretty color. Without fail there is a barking dog behind the fence. The smell and feel of the rain is delightful and unexpectedly relaxing. I may just go home and walk in the rain more often! A feeling like no other. 

    Slowly the rain subsides and is more of a soft mist.  I see a cat sitting in the middle of cut hay staring at us. It’s not long until I pass a single yellow rose that is so majestic.  Hello Mom.  I almost didn’t recognize you.  We hear a small van honking nonstop and it continues honking throughout the village. As it passes us I see written on the side “Transporte de Pao”.  This van is delivering fresh made bread to the residents of the town. How wonderful is that for the elderly citizens.  A nun walks towards us and insists she take her picture with me.  

    We have a long hike up to get to the city of Oliveria de Azemeis for lunch. My rain jacket makes me feel like I’m wearing a coat of plastic even though it’s supposed to be “breathable”.  We share a baguette with lettuce, tomato, ham and egg. It’s so good we order another one! Mimi orders a small bottle of red wine called Reguengos which is an official Camino wine and has the Templar cross on it.  She says it’s delicious.  As we sit outside under a big canopy and eat the rain gets stronger and stronger. We unanimously decide to taxi to our city of destination,  Sao Joao da Madeira.  We’ve walked 15 miles and only have 5 or 6 to go.  Our bellies are full and we are ready to get out of these wet clothes. We’ve arranged to share a room for 4 at Hotel Solar.  There are no elevators and we are on the 4th floor. Just what my sore muscles need! 

     Tomorrow we will be walking into Porto! Very excited about seeing this city of color we’ve heard so much about. It will be our last walking day with Mimi as she is scheduled to leave to go back home on a Saturday. It’s been fun having this funny, entertaining French girl with us these past few days. Maybe someday we will have an opportunity to visit her city of Metz, France!