May 25

Day 11

Porto

Forecast today is rain!

Personal Reflection:

  “How many more crossroads will I meet today...each requiring a choice of direction...but I need to remind myself that I journey in 2 different levels.  If I heed only the signs to Santiago I heed towards an empty casket.  The signs to the Source are not so obvious... but I miss them at my peril. I need to stay alert amongst the labyrinth of highways and byways of the inner Camino if I am to reach my true Destination.”

The Camino is so much more than a walk. It’s discovery of who you are and what you are capable of at the deepest level whether it be physical or mental.  Today as we navigate busy roads into Porto I will not forget to pray.  

We have all of our rain gear on as we set out this cool morning.  The Hostel was kind enough to offer us coffee and rolls before we left.  Immediately we start climbing out of town and within 2 miles I’m peeling off my fleece under my rain jacket.  I have sweat rolling down my back and brow from the exertion of this early climb.  I’m listening to Amy Grant’s Somewhere Down The Road....

    

“So much pain and no good reason why

You've cried until the tears run dry

And nothing here can make you understand

The one thing that you held so dear

Is slipping from your hands

And you say

Why, why, why

Does it go this way

Why, why, why

And all I can say is

Somewhere down the road

There'll be answers to the questions

Somewhere down the road

Though we cannot see it now

Somewhere down the road

You will find mighty arms reaching for you

And they will hold the answers at the end of the road

Yesterday I thought I'd seen it all

I thought I'd climbed the highest wall

Now I see the learning never ends

And all I know to do is keep on walking

Walking 'round the bend, saying

Why, why, why

Does it go this way

Why, why, why

And all I can say is

Why, why, why

Does it go this way

Why, why, why

And all I can say is

All I know to say now”.

A perfect song for the inner thoughts of my day.  As we level out we are on a very busy road.  Trucks and cars of every size whiz by us and never ever move over or swerve to not get so close. It’s been like this our entire trip whether on a farm road or busy road. It’s clear to us that pedestrians do NOT have the right away in Portugal.  The one exception is crossing a road at a designated crosswalk. The drivers almost always stop if they see you standing and waiting. I’m being sprayed with water from the the tires and feel like I’m covered in road dirt.  The day has just begun.  I’m hot then I’m cold and I feel like I’ve lost 5 lbs from sweating this morning. The temperature is in the 50’s F.  At one point the rain stops and under the overcast sky I peel off my raincoat and shiver as a breeze starts to blow.  

     Walking on this busy road reminds me of our busy lives and the stress that is felt.  We Finally veer off to the peace of a country road and stop at a cafe.  We wait for Michael but he sends a message he is calling it quits for the the day.  He has taxied back to our starting point and getting a bus or train to Porto.  Mimi is with us.  At the cafe she points out little succulents in a pot of roses that have water pellets in between their leaves. They look like diamonds. Perfect droplets of water. I look and see 3 in one little chick.  My first gift of the day. Ronnie, Mom and Dad are here. As we leave, Mimi deciphers road graffiti on a big cement post. It says, “your opinion of other people doesn’t define your Camino”.  A gentle reminder. 

    Mimi leaves us in Bolhao and catches a bus to Porto. The rain and busy traffic are just too much. I am miserable but Greg and I tredge on. Our goal is to at least make it to Grijo and bus from there if we can. It’s raining harder and harder and I’m dreaming of a warm shower.  

I’m missing so many photo opportunities.  When we pass by homes the majority have hand painted tile mosaics on the outside of the home.  Commonly these paintings are of religious scenes. Some are so large they take up the entire porch. 

    We make it to Grijo and stop at a pastry shop and rest.  We are on the outskirts of town but I decide to call a taxi from here.  None of the taxi numbers are answering so I ask inside for help. A darling young Portuguese girl arranges a ride for us and we wait 30 minutes til the taxi arrives. We are only 8 miles from Porto.  I’ve never been so happy to be in a taxi before in my life! 

    It’s been awesome having someone from Europe traveling with us. Mimi and her many languages will be missed  the remainder of our walk. She has located for us an apt for the night with 2 bedrooms, sofa, kitchenette and washer/dryer.  It is close to the train station and walkable to everything in this big city.  It reminds me of a New York City apartment hidden in an old building. We get in touch with Richard and Lorenz who are still in town and we all meet for dinner.  The tiny restaurant by the waterfront is charming and I have the best black ink pasta with salmon. Devine!  We share stories with Richard and Lorenz and learn that Richard is flying back to Norway tomorrow.  He received a phone call about a new job opportunity and has decided he must go.  He’s been such a fun addition to our Camino.  He will be missed. At dinner he tells us that an apt next to his family’s apartment in Lithuania is burning! He shows us videos and it’s horrific.  His phone is blowing up with phone calls and texts.  It is the apt his family left when they moved to Norway and they use it for family vacations. He is very concerned and sad. 

      After dinner we all uber to our homes for the evening. I’m amazed everyone we are with have an Uber app on their phone. Wow!  Our little electric car takes us home to our apt. and I fall into bed exhausted and full.